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Primer Kit Installation

1. Disconnect battery negative and remove fuel cap.

2. Remove flame arrester assemble.

3. Remove choke and throttle cables

4. Remove choke cable and choke knob from dash

5. Remove fuel lines from carburetors and mark where they go

6. Remove carburetors and drain fuel from them

7. Grind off the peened end of the two small screws holding the brass choke plates to the shaft (on both carbs) and remove the plates.

8. Grind off the peened end of the choke shaft that hold the actuator lever on and remove the lever

9. Remove the coupler unit connecting the two choke shafts together

10. Remove the choke shafts. Sometimes it helps to carefully cut the shafts in half.

11. The choke parts should be removed now.

12. Check the fit of the brass plug and plug with barbed nipple. If you cannot start them into the holes where the choke shaft was, you may need to carefully enlarge the holes. This is best done with a set of numbered drill bits. You want to enlarge the holes until the fittings can be started into the hole by hand (about half way is good), so you can drive them the rest of the way with a small hammer. It is your choice which fitting goes where. IE The barbed nipple can go on the left or right of each carb. If spacing permits, it is nice to put the two nipples facing each other, so the "T" fitting can go in between.... this is a very sano setup.

13. With holes properly sized, install fitting in desired location. If fit is a little to loose, clean the holes with acetone and apply super glue to the fitting before installation.

14. With fittings properly installed, you can now reinstall the carbs. You may need a new gasket if the other was ripped during removal. Be sure to use a small amount of Loctite on each nut holding the carbs. Loose carbs is bad news!!!

15. Now you will install the primer and associated plumbing.

16. Install the primer in the hole where the choke knob was. Our primers (unlike others), come with large stainless washers that should make up for the larger hole in the dash. Apply a small amount of Loctite to the thin nut before tightening.

17. Locate the fuel line coming from the tank and connecting to the fuel on/off/reserve switch input. Cut this line in a spot closest to the primer, but where the run is straight, and install the fitting with the 1/8 take off. Point the open end of the take off towards where the primer is.

18. Connect one end of the yellow Tygon fuel rated tubing to this fitting and route it to the primer and connect to the "suction port" which should be the one coming off and a slight angle.

19. Connect a piece of tubing to the remaining fitting on the primer, and route a line along the perimeter of the hull to the carbs. Do not cut the tubing off yet.

20. Now take your brass"T" and make up two short pieces of tubing on each end of the "T" and connect these to each "squirter" fitting on the carbs. Be sure each piece is the same length to ensure equal fuel to each carb.

21. Now cut to length and connect the end of the line coming from the primer to the "T".

22. you route and trim up your tubing is up to you, there are numerous good ways to accomplish this.

23. Now you can prime the system. This is easier if you reinstall the gas cap and put the ski in the sun to increase the internal pressure in the fuel tank. It can take many pushes of the bulb, but if you do not see fuel moving through the lines, you may have to pressure prime the system with a small syringe of fuel.

24. With the system primed and squiring fuel in the carb throats, you can now dress your lines and apply the small zip ties to the large fuel lines on the tap "T". Zip ties are usually not needed on the small lines.

25. Reinstall the flame arrestor assemble using Loctite on the attachment screws.

26. Starting your engine should now be painless. Most engines require 3 to 6 pumps.

Please contact us with questions or for assistance.

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